For this post, I recreated one of my favorite inspiration pictures. This was a NARS campaign from 2009, featuring the stunning Guinevere van Seenus. Guinevere just has one of those faces that is so beautiful to look at; her wide set eyes and milky skin are so inspiring. Our model, Hannah, also has wide set eyes and was game for the transformation, so along with the help of a black wig, we set about recreating this look.
Please note: I did not work on the original images in these posts, only the recreations. (for full credits, see the bottom of the post) These pictures are culled from my inspiration image library. They are go to images for me, pictures that make me want to grab my makeup brushes and get painting!
After prepping the skin, I used Got the Goods Multi-Benefit Foundation in Light #3, going a few shades lighter than Hannah's natural color. The skin in the NARS ad is very pale and creamy, and since we shot this in July our model had a bit of a tan, so going lighter would give me more of the effect I was looking to match. I used a little of the Save the Day Anti Acne Concealer Stick in Very Light under the eyes and around the edges of the nose and under the brows, then patted a little bit of a shimmer onto the cheekbones with the Touch and Glow Cream Shimmer Cubes All Over Face Palette, using just the lightest color in the palette. There is just a whisper of color in the original image so after setting the skin with loose powder I added just the slightest dusting of Just Blushing Powder Blush in Charmed, more for a little shape and structure than for a real blushy feeling.
This look is all about the eyes. It's simple, monochromatic, but seriously powerful. I love the round shape, how the color comes well into the the inner corners of the eyes and how the color lining the inside of the eye matches the shadow.
I started by taking the chubby Color Me In Eye Crayon in Wild Blue and covering the entire lid up to the fold, applying it directly to the skin. I lined the waterline, top and bottom, and then used a brush to work the color under the lower lashes, circling the whole eye. I smudged the color up past the crease with a brush, blending the edges with my finger to soften the line. Next I used a combination of Electra and Storming I-mark Wet/Dry Eyeshadows, swirling them together on the brush, and sweeping them over the lid where the pencil was, and then blending further up and out to make the round shape and to blend it out. The reason I used a medium matte grey color as well is because Electra is so metallic. The matte grey toned down the metallic and also neutralized the color a bit. The color in the original image is more of a teal color, and is matte. The effect of blending the two made the color more closely match the picture of Guinevere. It's also a good trick to make a more pearl finish out of a metallic shadow formulation.
To get the edges of the shadow nice and soft, I used a touch of the Save the Day Anti Acne Concealer Stick in Very Light to feather out the edges and to make sure there wasn't any pink in the skin near the brow and then set the skin with some loose powder. After the shadow was done, I curled the lashes and did two coats of mascara.
I did not bleach our lovely models' brows for this picture. I used a cream concealer on a clean spooly and worked it into the brow hairs from the root to tip, brushing them up, down and sideways to really coat them before brushing them back into place.
PRO TIP: The more pink/peach the concealer you use to conceal a brow, the better. The warmth will cut the ash of the brown in the hair, which is what can make the brows look kind of grey. I added a tiny bit of Just Pinched Instant Blush Tint (which is a cream blush) in Peachy and Cheeky to the Save the Day Anti Acne Concealer Stick in Very Light, mixing in on a palette to warm up the color. It really made the brows disappear and look bleached.
For the lips, I used the Full Color Lipstick in Toasty, but then patted it down with my finger so it became more of a tint, and not such a full on mouth. This best replicated the rosy nude on Guinevere.
I hope you like this post and had fun reading it. I would love to see your version of this look! Please send me snaps via twitter @fionastiles.
photographer: Andrew Stiles www.andrewstiles.com / model: Hannah Mitchell (Vision Models) / hair: Anna Lyles
Got the Goods Multi-Benefit Foundation in Light #3
Save the Day Anti Acne Concealer Stick in Very Light
Touch and Glow Cream Shimmer Cubes All Over Face Palette
Set Things Right Loose Powder in Light
Just Blushing Powder Blush in Charmed
Color Me In Crayon in Wild Blue
I-mark Wet/Dry Eyeshadow in Electra & Storming
Scanda-Lash Hook Up Mascara in Black
Full Color Lipstick in Toasty
NARS CAMPAIGN CREDITS:
Sadly, I could not find any info for this shoot. I don't know who shot it, did the makeup or the hair. I am not sure Francois does makeup for his ads anymore. I will keep looking for credits and will change this info should I learn anything.